Lange, a brand at the top of the pyramid in the field of mechanical watchmaking, is also a model of German high-end watchmaking. Every time I mention Lange, there are always some German things in my mind, such as The city of Dresden, such as Germany’s top precision manufacturing, such as German classical music, etc., may not be directly related to Lange, but it is clear that Lange has become part of German impression. This year’s Lange has a watch that I can hardly forget. Although most people cannot reach it, including myself, it is almost impossible to own it, but it is indeed a watch worthy of appreciation. This is Lange’s new ZEITWERK self-sounding watch, model 143.050.
Each of Lange’s series is distinctive, and I think the most special are three series: Lange 1, Pour le Merite and ZEITWERK. The latter two are undoubtedly Lange’s high-end products. ZEITWERK is Lange’s only series with many beeping watches. It is also Lange’s most recognizable and iconic watch except Lange 1. After its launch in 2009, , ZEITWERK soon became the dream model of high-end players, high prices, unique word jumping time, superb mechanical technology, this is the Lange family.
18K Honey Gold
Lange Zeitwerk 2017 new watch
Today, with the frequent use of special materials, how to make breakthroughs in materials has always been a problem faced by many high-end watch brands. Lange has always respected tradition. Therefore, Lange has not included high-tech materials such as ceramics, carbon fiber and composite materials. In the frame of watchmaking, the traditional white gold, gold, rose gold and platinum are already commonplace, especially under the premise that all Lange models use precious metals, these materials have been difficult to distinguish some special watches directly in appearance. Come. As early as 2010, to celebrate the 165th anniversary of the brand’s founding, Lange launched three complication watches created by the original honey-colored gold. At this time, 18K honey-colored gold was well known as an exclusive of Lange’s special models. Material, only a few Lange watches use this precious metal patented by Lange.
18k Honey Gold Case
Polished bezel Brushed middle case
Lange’s 18K honey gold is also based on 75% gold. By changing the remaining 25% of the alloy composition and using two materials, manganese and zinc, Lange’s gold has a honey-like moist color. With the proper alloy ratio, Lange 18K Honey Gold has not only higher hardness than platinum, but also wear resistance and easy polishing. Of course, just because this alloy is not enough for high-end players to make a lot of money, it naturally has other ‘killers’.
‘Tremblage’ hand-carved ‘Time Bridge’
The tradition of high-level mechanical watchmaking often becomes more attractive because of many hand-refined elements. In addition to the traditional manual refining of the movement, Lange pioneered a new hand-engraving process called ‘tremblage’. Only a few Lange watches have ever applied this process. This process completely requires hand-made by the engraver, so it takes a long time and the amount of finished products is small.
‘Tremblage’ hand-carved hammer and splint
The ‘tremblage’ process has been used in a special series of Lange in the past. This process requires manual engravers to use a special engraving knife to advance carefully, so that each part is evenly engraved with the effect of sandblasted grain. In fact, it is not difficult to produce the effect of graininess simply, but it is not easy to produce a uniform and grainy effect on the entire plywood or the surface of extremely small parts. This process emphasizes the beauty of handicrafts in high-end watches.
Iconic jump word and panel design
Zeitwerk has always had the nickname of ‘owl’, because of its disk layout, like a owl, very cute. This is Lange’s only watch series with the time jump display. It is also a very small number of time jump watches in mass production in the entire altar. The watch face is composed of the following parts: the small seconds at 6 o’clock, 9 o’clock and 3 o’clock jumping digital windows, 12 o’clock power reserve indicator, ‘time bridge’ in the center of the dial, and a set of sounding devices. The disk design follows the principle of central symmetry and is very balanced.
Interestingly, this is Lange’s very innovative time display method. In order to achieve harmonious and accurate time indication, both time display windows are flashing digital dials. When the small second hand passes the instant of 60 seconds, the dial surface will be Will respond immediately. Because of this, we can read every time very accurately.
Complex movements are everywhere
Complex manual winding movement
In addition to Zeitwerk’s own iconic word-jumping function, this new self-sounding watch this year has changed the previous engraving and clock points, using a ten-point structure, every ten minutes and every hour, will ring , Prompt time. And all this depends on the manually wound L043.7 movement specially developed by Lange. In order to achieve complex functions, the number of movement parts has reached 528, which is almost three times that of an ordinary three-hand watch movement. .
Core jump word structure and barrel
On the side of the movement, we can clearly see a complex key module, which is located on the edge of the barrel. The structure has a clutch function, which will be triggered when the second wheel passes a circle (that is, 60 seconds). In this structure, two important processes are completed instantaneously, one is to push the minute wheel to jump forward one grid, and the other is to instantaneously replenish the independent mainspring of the part with energy from the barrel. These two actions are completed so quickly that it is difficult for the naked eye to distinguish them instantaneously, but in fact, the internal coordination has completed at least 4 sets of actions. Of course, each action is almost synchronized and completed simultaneously. The subtlety , Incredible.
Escapement speed regulation mechanism and manual carved splint
In addition, a number of safety protection devices are installed in the movement to avoid adverse effects caused by some non-human factors. When all this is done, Lange also needs to carefully decorate, polish and adjust the movement. Therefore, the value of such a movement alone has already reached the value of many high-end watches.
Brown alligator strap
The watch is paired with a brown alligator leather strap with a pin buckle and is elegant.
Summary: Obviously, this is a heavyweight work of Lange this year, limited to 100 pieces. No matter from the perspective of technology, craftsmanship, brand value, model value, design speciality, etc., it is an excellent watch, of course. For such a watch, the price will be shut out by many people. The domestic quotation of RMB 906000 far exceeds the general complicated watches of the same category brands.